|
12th August 2008.
The trip from Port Hedland to Broome is appprox 600 kms and a good way to break up this long haul is to visit a few of the magic sites along the way, namely Eighty Mile Beach, Port Smith Lagoon and Barn Hill Station, all unique and enjoyable in their own particular way.
Eighty Mile Beach:
Eighty Mile Beach caravan park is located at Wallal Downs, approx 235 kms from Port Hedland and is an extremely popular site renowned for it's layed back lifestyle, it's beach and the fishing. Threadfin Salmon in the 10 to 15kg range are a regular catch. The dirt road in (approx 10ks) was quite badly corrugated and as they later explained to us, although it's graded regularly, with over a 100 vehicles and caravans a day coming in and going out, it's hard to keep it in good condition.
The wind was blowing a gale when we arrived and had to settle for an un-powered site for the first night. As soon as we had set up, straight off to the beach and WOW, that over used word again. The tide was on it's way out and the sea was hundreds of metres out. Up here they usually have 8 - 10 metre tides. Drove onto the beach and headed north and it was like driving on the blacktop, smooth as a babies bum at cruising speed, awesome. Just miles and miles of beach without a sole in sight, in fact 80 miles of it, hence the name.
As we drove off the beach, noticed a wash down area for cars to get rid of all the salty stuff, well done guys. Then came across the compressor and tyre pump area. These guys think of everything. Stopped at the fish cleaning area and only one threadfin (9kg) caught today plus a few small catfish. Everyone was complaining about the wind. Anyway, next morning, still very windy and there were only about 50 people out fishing, so threw a line in. Not a thing caught by anyone. I went back later in the afternoon at low tide and caught a 125cm shark and a few catfish, all of which were returned. The shark was good fun leaping out the water and putting on a good show.
On Wednesday afternoon (13th) a live band put on a good afternoons entertainment to raise money for The Royal Flying Doctors Service. Just over $1,200.00 was raised and little did we know at the time, but we would soon need their help. (see Life on The Road)
This definitely gets into the mix of our favourite parks. It's not all modern and clinical, it's just a very nice, layed back place and has everything you want in a park, plus the car wash bay and a well stocked store. Unfortunately the constant strong winds over the 4 days we were there meant not many fish caught by anyone.
Port Smith Lagoon:
Approx 220 kms from 80 Mile Beach, another dirt road (23kms) takes us into Port Smith lagoon. Another nice spot but a lot smaller. Only downside here was the lack of water pressure, no sullage points and no dump point coz there's no deep water sewerage. Making up for that, the ablution blocks are some of the best we've come across anywhere. They're unisex and contain a toilet, shower and basin in each cubice, very nice and private.
The lagoon is definitely worth seeing. When we arrived it was low tide and we were able to drive down through the mangroves and into the lagoon. The odd water pool here and there and the stranded rocky mangrove islands make a very picturesque landscape as the sun sets over the sand dunes and the ocean. Back next morning at high tide and can't believe our eyes, the whole place is filled with beautiful blue water and the lagoon looks like a scene out of the movies, absolutely stunning.
Warning: If you go into the lagoon at low tide, you have to leave at least 2 hours after low tide. The tide comes in so quickly and sweeps in behind and around you and you're suddenly left stranded out there. We saw the warnings in the office and watched the tide come in from a safe vantage point, and it's frightening how quickly it happens, so take heed.
Saw pictures of some cliffs and rocks ocean side of the lagoon in the office, so had to go and see for ourselves. There's plenty of 4wd tracks here to keep the enthusiasts happy and the soft boggy sand as you near the cliffs is challenging, to say the least. We got totally bogged 3 times that day and our MaxTrax certainly paid for themselves in allowing us to recover without any outside assistance. The only way through was dropping pressures down to 15psi and keeping up the momentum. During the day, we helped 3 other travelers get out of the poo, so I was quite chuffed with our efforts.
One of the few parks that has ULP, diesel and gas facilities and a well stocked store. It's a good place to chill out and enjoy the fishing, scenery and a game of golf on a very different bush course. Where else in the world can you play 9 holes including club hire for only $2.00. Once again, the strong winds made fishing very difficult so didn't even toss a line. Lots of entertainment with Sing Along happy hours that last till around 10pm, talent shows plus lots lots more. Well worth a visit.
Barn Hill Station:
Only 17kms from the Port Smith turnoff plus 8kms of dirt road and we're at Barn Hill Station. As this is a working cattle station, there are a series of gates to be opened and closed along the way. Roads are good but very different as they're not graded flat like all the others. They are graded in a "U" shape and as you drive along on your side of the road, you feel as if you're on an embankment about to roll over coz the cars leaning at such an angle.
Beware of the Humps: Lots of big humps every few kms. They aren't speed bumps, but are channels for routing the rain water out into the bush so it doesn't wash away and flood the roads. As the road is that bright red sand and you're busy concentrating on your side of the road and the weird angle you're traveling at, it's easy to miss the impending humps coming up. We got caught on the first one and the caravan was airborne at 30kph. Doesn't sound much, but try hauling a 2.5 tonne caravan over a 30cm hump at 30kph. Drawers opened themselves and dumped their contents across the floor and everything that wasn't tied down ended up strewn all over the place.
All power is generated in the camp and is basically limited to lights and fridge duties. No electric cooking, water heating or air conditioners or the main switch trips out. You're pretty much limited to gas power for heating and cooking. No sullage points for the water so you have to use the ablution blocks which are only average. Also, no dump point.
Awesome beach, cliff and rock formations that leave you spell bound. Most of the social activities revolve around the bowling green and "No Shoes or cattle allowed on the green"! Sunday night is Roast dinner night @ $15.00 each and Wednesday night is communal BBQ but BYO.
We found this site very clickey. Most of the people were here for 3 to 4 months and were very territorial and tended to socialise with the other long termers. Say no more....
Life on The Road:
This stretch on the way to Broome was a very layed back and enjoyable trip with the three uniquely different parks.
At 80 Mile Beach, Marlene got another infection from her operation some months ago and was in agony. Knew there weren't any doctors in the area so were planning to head to the nearest town in the morning, back to Port Hedland. Went and enquired at reception if there was a doctor closer and as guessed, Port Hedland was the closest.
"We can call the Royal Flying Doctor Service if it's really that bad" the girl on reception says and Marlene says yes please.
Now I show my ignorance by saying "Don't you think it's a bit of an overkill calling in the RFDS when all she needs is some more anti-biotics"
All I know about the RFDS is that they look after the outback and fly sick and injured people to the nearest hospitals, so now you know what I'm thinking.
"No, we're not getting the doctor to fly here, we call them on the phone, they diagnose the problem if possible and we carry emergency medicines here which we dispense"
Wake up Ken!!!! Now it all falls into place and I realise what an idiot I must have looked to them. They then call up the doctor, he has a long chat with Marlene asking all the relevant questions and then tells the receptionist what to give her. Then when I ask how much, they tell me no charge as it's supplied by the RFDS, so I make another donation to them. This was an eye opener to me and made me aware of the important role the RFDS plays in our community.
|