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22nd July 2008.
We were really looking forward to Karijini. Heard both good and disappointing reports about the place, but have to make up our own mind coz everyones looking for something different in a destination. This was to be our longest haul with the caravan so far, just under 7 hours.
From Exmouth to Nanutarra , the terrain was pretty flat and not that interesting, but once we headed inland from Nanutarra and encountered the Hamersley Ranges, WOW.
Every twist and turn in the road presented a new landscape that was worthy of being captured on canvas by artists. Never seen a mountain range that kept us so enthralled for so long. Eventually arrived at Tom Price just getting on dark and once again were in the overflow area as the caravan park was full.
Hamersley Gorge:
Following morning headed out to Hamersley Gorge on a mostly dirt road covering 70ks. Reasonably good at first, but got progressively worse and towards the end, were down to 10 - 20kph. An easy walk down to and through the gorge and it's well worth the extra trip.
Oxler Lookout:
Approx 76ks via reasonably good dirt roads into the Karijini National Park and then around 30ks of very bad and corrugated roads to Oxley Lookout and Weano Gorge.
Renowned as possibly one of the most spectacular lookouts in Australia, Oxer overlooks the junction of 4 gorges which includes Red, Weano, Joffre and Hancock gorges. As I walked out onto the lookout platform, I suddenly realised just how deep the gorges were and it's breathtaking looking down the sheer drop into the darkness below. The views from here are spectacular and unforgettable, and as for those colours, WOW.
As I previously mentioned, the road into Karijini was very bad and by the time we walked back to Tinkerbelle, we noticed the left rear tyre was flat, bugger. By the time we'd had something to eat and changed the flat tyre it was time to head back to Tom Price, get the puncture fixed and get ready for tomorrow.
Weano Gorge:
Headed back the following morning and within 10 minutes of heading up the Weano Gorge road, another puncture. Changed the tyre and we're still smiling when we arrive at Weano Gorge :) A gentle meander down the path then a more rugged descent into the gorge itself.
You walk through the gorge as nature created and intended it, no bridges across the water or hand rails to help you over the rocks and ledges, you just take it as it comes 'au naturale'. The bright red layered rocks tower up above and it's definitely well worth the walk. We eventually reached Handrail pool which is great for swimming. More experienced explorers can continue beyond the pool with extreme caution, but most people including us, took the steep climb out from here. Phew!!!
Joffre Gorge:
Steep steps take us down the short walk to the lookout. It's another awesome spectacle.
Another tyre damaged, the left rear tyre wall has two long cuts but is still inflated so decide to call it a day and head back to Tom Price for more repairs. (see "Life on the Road" for more details)
Dales Gorge which includes,
Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool and Circular Pool:
Day three and this is by far the most popular part of Karijini coz all the roads are sealed asphalt. It is also where the camp grounds are located. The three attractions in the one gorge are probably the best part of the trip and for us, it was our favorite. The walk down to Fortescue Falls is hard and demanding carrying all the gear but definitely worth the effort. Looking down on to Fortescue Falls from the lookout is, and what can I say other than," awesome and stunning". It's not just the falls, which from here is just a tiny dot right down there, but the whole gorge itself with it's 180 degree views. As we continue down the steep descent, it just gets better and better.
After filming the pool, falls and gorge, we take the right turn to Fern Pool. This is probably the most picturesque spot in Karijini. The water is crystal clear cascading over the ledge and with the backdrop of the red gorge rising up behind it, it really is a sight to behold.
Then a gentle ramble through the bottom of the gorge to Circular Pool. Then back to the Falls ready for the hard climb out.
Karijini National Park, the gorges and the Hamersley Range definitely lived up to our expectations and are an awesome sight and experience. The only disappointment for us, was due to the time of year, the sun was never overhead and it made filming and photography very hard as one side of the gorges was in brilliant sunshine while the other half was total shadow, morning, noon and afternoon.
We planned to head off to Milstream/Chichester National Park next, but although the road was open, it was in too bad a condition to take the caravan through, so we'll come in from the north end while in Karatha next week.
Life On The Road:
Travelers be warned. Plan your fuel stops carefully. We had been warned about prices at Nanaturra. It's stuck out in the middle of nowhere and it's the only fuel stop in the area. Diesel at Exmouth was $2.098, Nanaturra $2.389 but had to put in $50.00 to reach Paraburdoo and Tom Price ($2.029).
The west entrance to Karijini (Banjima Drive) and Weano gorge, the road was in terrible condition. It was very badly corrugated and consists mainly of very sharp stones which fracture and ruin tyres. We had Cooper tyres on which are renowned for being harder to puncture than most others, but the stone fractures destroyed 3 tyres beyond repair. As they didn't have 3 of our tyres, we ended up having to buy 5 new Cooper ATR's which cost us $1,575.00. The locals told us that it's the worst condition they've seen the road in and the tyre retailers had been flat out trying to keep up with puncture repairs and replacements, so an expensive excursion that's blown our budget once again.
Marlene did all the walks and climbs that I did and we still find it hard to believe how well she's doing :) She has the odd bad day, but overall, what an improvement from when we first hit the road. Mind you, our last day there just wasn't her day. Firstly, a burst waterpipe at the caravan park flooded our site, then she broke her glasses and then lost her favorite hiking stick as it fell down the gorge.
Karijini was a tough call for me walking out onto the lookouts and peering down the sheer cliffs, frightening stuff for someone scared of heights, as some of those gorges are really deep. Definitely the hardest filming gig coz of all the walking with the gear.
Stop whingeing Ken, it was your idea and coice in the first place, so just get on with it :) |
Our Trip 
