Home Our Trip South Australia 56-The Oodnadatta Track
56-The Oodnadatta Track

5th April 2009.

The Oodnadatta Track has a significant historical past as it runs close to the Old Ghan  Railway line and the Overland Telegraph line. We'd met a few fellow travelers who had just come down The Oodnadatta Track who told us that it had just been graded and it was just like a highway and in perfect condition. They all had off-road camper trailers, but with reports from a few different sources telling us the same thing, we figured it would be safe to take the caravan, just drop the tyre pressures on the van down to 30psi, take it easy and everything should be sweet.

Marree:

First part of the trip to Marree was good with some sealed tarmac sections. Then branched left onto the Oonadatta Track proper. Like they said, the road had just been graded and was in good nick. Here you can see the original mail truck used be the legendary Tom Kruse in the 1930's and there's also lots of Ghan Railway memorabilia.

Mutonia Sculpture Park:

All along the Oodnadatta Track, there are well preserved ruins of the many rail sidings and the track soon passes through The Dog Fence (the longest dog fence in the world). There are also many vantage points along the way to stop off and see the Lake Eyre salt flats, but don't expect to see any water in the lake from here.

40 kms from Maree, we suddenly come across the Mutonia Sculpture Park with it's remarkable Plane Henge and Giant Dingo created by mechanic turned artist, Robin Cooke. He now returns every year to create a new sculpture. Believe he's currently working on is a giant ant using a VW Beetle shell. Absolutely awesome with the arid and barren backdrop of the desert.

Coward Springs:

Further on, we come across Coward Springs, home to the famous mound springs. The mound springs are approx 6kms south of Coward Springs and the track on the left is not very well signposted and is easy to miss, so keep your eyes open. Definitely a must see, they are formed when water from the artesian basin rises to the surface with all its minerals and sediments from deep in the earth. The minerals and sediment are left on the surrounds of the springs as the water evaporates in the heat and in doing so, slowly increases the height of of the mounds so that they are higher than the natural ground level, hence the name 'mound springs'. Amazing seeing water out in the middle of nowhere.

William Creek:

205kms from Marree and the first opportunity to get diesel, we pull into William Creek which basically consists of a pub, camp grounds and fuel station all in one. With a permanent population of 2, William Creek is one of the smallest towns in Australia and situated on the world's largest working cattle station - 24,000 square kilometer Anna Creek Station. There's also an outback runway as this is where the flights over Lake Eyre operate from. Another awesome outback pub with good food, but very limited amenities and no water hookups, so make sure you come well stocked up with supplies and plenty of drinking water.

Lake Eyre:

Lake Eyre is usually a dry salt pan where Donald Campbell set the land speed record way back in 1964. Although it has the biggest water catchment area in the world covering approx 1,140,000 sq kms, it is usually a dry saltpan and has only filled and flooded 3 times in the past 150 years. It does get some water in the lake approximately every 10 years if there has been heavy rain in the northern states. 

Our timing was perfect. Due to all the floods in Queensland in the previous few months, the water is flowing down into the Lake Eyre catchment area via the Warburton and many other rivers, so we're in luck to see what many other visitors have never seen, water in the lake. Other than the experience of doing The Oodnadatta Track, the main purpose of stopping off at William Creek was to fly out and see water in Lake Eyre.  

After setting up the caravan behind the pub, straight up to the office to book a flight for tomorrow, "Sorry mate booked out for the next 2 to 3 weeks, come back each morning at 11 o'clock to see if there's been any cancellations" Bugger, after all that mileage doing the outback tracks of South Australia to find that all flights are booked out for weeks, can't believe it. Anyway, next morning I'm up there just after 10 and guess what, I'm in luck. Due to booking mess up, one of the pilots has decided to do a private late afternoon charter and has hired the plane on a cost share basis, so instead of the usual $190.00 per person for the scheduled half hour tour, it's only costing $150.00 and we're flying at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. 

Well worth the trip and an awesome flight over the world's largest working cattle station, Anna Creek. BUT the highlight definitely was actually seeing water flooding into Lake Eyre. The most likely place to get close to the water is Haligan Bay a few kms south of William Creek, but as we saw from the air, the water is still hundreds of metres away from the shore and there's no way you can see water from the ground. 

We've seen what so many visitors in the past didn't have the opportunity to see, water in Lake Eyre, absolutely awesome :)

Oodnadata:

Leaving William Creek, the road/track is still good and Tinkerbelle and the caravan and holding up well. We pass more well preserved ruins of the many rail sidings and soon come across the remains of The Algebuckina Bridge, the largest bridge ever constructed in South Australia for the Old Ghan Railway. On the northern end of the bridge are the graves of the many workers that were involved in it's construction.

Despite the re-location of the new Ghan Railway  in the 1980's, the small town of Oodnadatta has survived mainly due to the efforts of Adam and Lynnie, the proprietors of the infamous Pink Roadhouse. All of the Pink road and information signs you see in the area have been produced by them and they are a wealth of information. They have also produced many road maps and advice leaflets on travel in the area including the Simpson Desert, which was still closed when we arrived.

Life on the Road:

The Strzelecki, Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks where not as expected. We were anticipating real outback rough, slow going bush tracks, but all three were in pretty good condition. Mind you, we were warned that conditions change daily and vary from good to diabolical, so we consider ourselves lucky. For all the latest news and conditions on the Oodnadatta, phone Lynnie and Adam at The Pink Roadhouse on 1800 802 074 , or visit their website at www.pinkroadhouse.com.au as they're a wealth of information and only too happy to help.

We enjoyed all three tracks and the isolation of the outback. The desolate landscape was awesome with surprises around every corner. Must admit, I do love the raw, arid outback Australia, It's an unbelievable country and our experiences have been indescribable. 
 

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