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28th March 2009.
We're heading north through Adelaide and Port Augusta to Wilpena Pound to start our adventure in the Flinders Ranges. Sun's shining, it's a good drive, so we're on top of the world and looking forward to leaving the hustle and bustle behind.
Once we left Port Augusta and started heading inland and north, the landscape quickly changed and we soon came across the more arid and mountainous landscapes that we associate with inland Australia. Continuing through Quorn and Hawker , The Flinders Range are becoming more prominent on the wat. After a 5 hour drive on sealed roads, we arrive in Wilpena Pound.
Wilpena Pound:
Wilpena Pound is the centerpiece of the Flinders Ranges National Park and the mountains are nothing like we've seen before. It's a range of mountains 17kms long and 8kms across that form a huge natural amphitheater. There's only one way into the amphitheater and that's by foot along one of the many well signposted walking trails. In fact, it's a bush-walkers paradise with walks all over the place to the many lookouts. The couple next to us did the challenging walk up St Mary's Peak (1200 metres high) and said it was awesome. The campgrounds have retained that bush feel with kangaroos, birds and lizards wandering around the tents and caravans, nice and layed back.
A flight over the Pound is a must and the only way you can really appreciate what's there and see the amphitheater. The flight was reasonably priced at $115.00 for the 30 minute flight and worth every cent. You just gotta do it.
Another must do highlight, is the "Arkaba Mountain Top 4WD Spectacular". We took the Tag Along option so we could take our own vehicle and again, was reasonably priced at $55.00. Although you do need a 4WD coz of some of the climbs, there's no rough stuff or real 4WD action, but it's an awesome trip with scenery and views you'll never forget. Our tour guide, Jaz, knows the area like the back of her hand and she gave us a refreshing and enjoyable trip with plenty of time to take photos and do all the filming we needed. Another one of those good experiences, good guide, good company and awesome views. This route is not open to the public as it crosses private property.
We also did some of the self guided 4WD tracks through the many gorges and creeks which are also well worth doing.
Arkaroola:
30th March - Left Wilpena Pound and the sealed road behind as we headed through Blinman (South Australia's highest town), through the Parachilna Gorge To Parachilna, then on sealed road to Copley. Turned left and hit the dirt again on our way to Arkaroola. We were a bit concerned about taking the caravan there, but fellow travelers had assured us that the road was in good condition, but be careful of the stones and rocks, so we dropped all tyre pressures down to 30psi and took it easy and all went well. In fact the worst part of the road was the final 4kms into Arkaroola itself. Very, and I mean VERY badly corrugated and lots of sharp rocks. While at reception booking in, the guy in front of us had cut through and blown a tyre on his 4WD and had a puncture on his trailer and the guy in front of him had also puntured a tyre, so maybe our lucks changing coz we made it with now mishaps.
Anyway, back to the trip in. We were now heading out into the wilderness of the outback and the countryside we've grown a real love / hate relationship with. We love the isolation including the ever changing views of nothing but sand, rocks and rugged mountains, but we hate the dust that penetrates every nook and cranny of the car and caravan. The trip there is pretty ordinary until you see the trees and rugged mountains of a creek on the way. Awesome dropping down into the dried up river bed then climbing up through the picturesque mountains then just as suddenly as it appeared, it's gone and all we can see are the flat plains in front of us for as far as the eye can see. Miles and miles of nothing but the flat outback. Then 70kms further on and out of the blue, more rugged mountains with that awesome red outback glow, then onto the undulating plains until we arrive at Arkaroola, described in the brochure as "a geological wonderland and a wilderness sanctuary".
Very basic outback camping facilities with no drinking water hookups so take plenty of drinking water with you. Amenities are adequate and the store has very limited provisions, so come well prepared. BUT, Arkaroola is absolutely awesome with some of the best mountain and 4WD drive tracks and views we seen so far. Arkaroola also boasts "some of the best astronomical seeing conditions in the southern hemisphere, free of atmospheric and light pollution". There's 3 observatories to view the night skies from including the largest privately owned astronomical observatory in Australia. The night skies and the stars are absolutely unbelievable here, never seen anything like it.
BUT by far the biggest highlight of Arkaroola, is the world renowned signature "Ridgetop Tour" up to Sillers Lookout. It's a 4.5 hour return trip through some of the most rugged and mountainous countryside we've seen so far as it traverses the rugged razor-back ridges and across the peaks of the Flinders Ranges. It then climaxes, and I mean CLIMAXES, with the steep, narrow and spine tingling climb to the top of the world at Sillers Lookout. It's a fast hard drive up the final stretch and as you reach the peak, there's just enough room to do a very carefull three point turn. There's no room for mistakes or over-shooting the mark. Absolutely unbelievable and the views forever across the Flinders out to Lake Frome and all the surroundings will be etched in our memory forever, unbelievable.
As I had jumped off to film the final climb, I then unfortunately had to walk up the final stage to the top which was really hard going carrying the video gear. Must admit the footage I captured of that final climb is awesome. Our tour guide and driver, Sharpy Coultharld, a real didge local aboriginal, kept us enthralled all the way. Turns out he's also spent 10 years at university studying Land Conservation and Management.
Arkaroola is an unbelievable experience in so many ways and is definitely up on our list of highlights of Travelling Oz. You definitely gotta do this trip.
Life On The Road:
We're now heading north and further into the real outback and doing some of the legendary South Australian Outback Tracks, so stay tuned.
Don't mean to keep repeating myself, but yeah, we're still enjoying life on the road, it's an unbelievable and unforgetable experience.
This continent never fails to amaze and enthral us. Forget the big cities, the real Australia is out here in the outback and if you haven't seen and experienced it, you ain't really seen the real Australia, it's awesome.
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Our Trip 
